Designed to be discovered from every angle.

The Pink Tourmaline Oculus was designed around a 3.97ct natural pink tourmaline, fancy-cut into a distinctive pear shape and set within a substantial architectural form.

From above, the tourmaline is held within a polished bezel and framed by a broad, rounded collar of 18k yellow gold. Fine rows of granulation trace the outer setting before flowing onto the shoulders and along both edges of the satin-finished band.

Around the sides, the ring becomes more intricate. Granulated borders rise toward the center stone, while individually arranged rosettes appear across the sculptural under-gallery. Beneath the tourmaline, a quatrefoil oculus creates a hidden view into the stone—allowing its color and light to be seen from an entirely different perspective.

There is no single front to this ring. Its details continue wherever you look.

Why you’ll notice this ring twice

From across the room, it’s the color.

The 3.97ct natural pink tourmaline moves between blush pink, rose and soft violet as it catches the light. Its pear-shaped fancy cut gives the stone a strong visual direction, while the substantial 18k yellow gold setting surrounds it with warmth and presence.

Look closer and the smaller details begin to emerge.

The smooth, high-polished bezel contrasts with a broad field of satin-finished gold. Fine rows of hand-fused granulation follow the contours of the setting and continue along the edges of the band. Small granulated rosettes appear across the under-gallery, becoming visible as the ring turns on the hand.

Then there is the underside.

A quatrefoil oculus beneath the center stone reveals a glimpse of the tourmaline from below. Rather than treating the underside as somewhere the design stops, it becomes one of the ring’s most intimate details—visible primarily to the person wearing it.

It is a ring made to reward curiosity.

Handmade using traditional goldsmithing techniques

Every Rings by Nathan King piece is individually handcrafted rather than mass-produced.

The granulation is created by forming, positioning and fusing individual gold spheres to the surface without visible solder. This technique dates back more than 2,500 years to the Etruscans and remains one of the most demanding forms of decorative goldsmithing.

Unlike decoration reproduced as part of a casting, true granulation is assembled granule by granule. Slight variations in placement and form are part of the character of the work and ensure that no two rings can ever be entirely identical.

On the Pink Tourmaline Oculus, granulation is used in several distinct ways. Continuous rows trace the borders of the band and frame the center setting. Larger granules create rhythm and emphasis as the shoulders rise toward the stone. Beneath the tourmaline, individual granules are arranged into small rosettes across the sculptural under-gallery.

The broad band is given a soft satin finish, allowing the polished granulation and bezel to catch the light against a quieter surface. The interior is polished for comfort, while every edge, granule, pierced opening and structural detail is finished individually by hand.

At 11.2 grams, this is a substantial ring with the weight and presence of a future heirloom—not simply an accessory, but a piece intended to be carried forward.

Specifications

Metal: Handcrafted 18k yellow gold
Center Stone: 3.97ct natural pink tourmaline
Stone Shape: Pear shape
Cut: Fancy cut
Setting: Hand-fabricated bezel setting with sculptural under-gallery
Hidden Detail: Quatrefoil oculus beneath the center stone
Detailing: Hand-fused granulation, including granulated borders and individual rosettes
Finish: Satin-finished band with contrasting high-polish bezel, granulation and edges
Ring Weight: 11.2 grams
Ring Size: US 7

Each ring is individually made and can be tailored to your finger size and preferred gemstone.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this the exact ring I’ll receive?

This ring was individually handmade around its 3.97ct natural pink tourmaline.

If the original piece remains available, it is offered in a US size 7 and weighs 11.2 grams. If it has already been sold, a new interpretation can be created using a personally selected gemstone.

Because every natural gemstone has its own proportions, color and internal character, and because the granulation is applied individually by hand, no reproduction will ever be entirely identical to the original.

Can it be made in my ring size?

Yes.

Every ring is made specifically for the wearer and can be produced in virtually any finger size. The proportions and final gold weight may vary slightly depending on the required size and the dimensions of the selected center stone.

Can I choose a different gemstone?

Absolutely.

This design can be created around a range of colored gemstones, including tourmalines, garnets, sapphires, spinels and selected diamonds.

Rather than forcing a gemstone into a predetermined setting, the architecture of the ring is developed around the individual stone. The height, bezel, oculus and surrounding goldwork can therefore be adjusted to complement its precise shape and proportions.

Are pink tourmalines always the same color?

No.

Natural pink tourmalines can range from pale blush and delicate rose through to vivid pink, raspberry and pinkish violet. Some stones may also display more than one tone depending on the direction of the light.

This variation is part of the character of a natural gemstone. Where a ring is made to order, gemstone options can be presented for your approval before the ring is built.

What makes the underside of the ring different?

The underside is deliberately part of the design.

Rather than concealing the structure beneath the center stone, the Pink Tourmaline Oculus uses a sculptural under-gallery, granulated rosettes and a quatrefoil opening to create an additional view of the gemstone.

The oculus allows light and color to be seen through the underside of the tourmaline while introducing a hidden architectural detail intended primarily for the wearer.

Are the small gold details individually made?

Yes.

Every granule is individually formed, positioned and fused to the gold surface. The fine borders are assembled one granule at a time, while the small rosettes beneath the setting are constructed from individual spheres rather than cast as a single decorative element.

This is what gives genuine granulation its depth, variation and unmistakably handmade character.

Can it be made in white gold or 14k?

Because of the extensive hand-fused granulation used throughout this design, the Pink Tourmaline Oculus is produced in 18k yellow gold.

The alloy and working characteristics of 18k yellow gold are particularly suited to this traditional granulation process. A bespoke interpretation may be created in another precious metal using alternative construction and decorative methods while preserving the architectural character of the original ring.

Is pink tourmaline suitable for everyday wear?

Pink tourmaline is suitable for jewelry, but like all natural gemstones it should be protected from hard impacts, abrasive surfaces and sudden temperature changes.

The stone is secured within a protective bezel setting, which offers greater coverage around its edge than an exposed claw setting. However, because of the scale of the gemstone and the sculptural nature of the ring, I would treat it as a statement piece rather than wear it during heavy manual activity, exercise or household work.

How should I care for the ring?

Clean the ring gently using warm water, mild soap and a very soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaning unless the gemstone has first been professionally assessed.

The ring should be stored separately from other jewelry to protect both the tourmaline and the hand-finished gold surfaces. Rings by Nathan King also offers a complimentary clean and inspection 12 months after delivery.

How long does it take to make?

As each ring is individually handcrafted, please allow approximately 6–8 weeks from design and gemstone approval.

The exact timeframe will depend on gemstone sourcing, material availability and the current workshop schedule. Progress photographs are provided throughout the creation of the ring.

Will I see my ring being made?

Yes.

Every Rings by Nathan King commission includes progress photographs throughout the build, together with a complimentary proof-of-build video documenting the creation of your ring.

This provides a permanent record of how your piece was made—from the first stages of construction through to granulation, setting and final finishing.