How I Choose the Diamonds That Go Into My Rings

When people ask me about the diamonds I use, they often expect the conversation to begin with a debate about lab-grown versus natural diamonds.

These days, that's rarely the first question I ask.

Lab-grown diamonds have become an accepted part of the jewelry industry. They're chemically, physically, and optically the same as natural diamonds. Even the traditional diamond industry has had to adapt to that reality, with falling natural diamond prices, mine closures, and major restructuring at De Beers reflecting how dramatically the market has changed in recent years.

For me, the more interesting question isn't where the diamond came from.

It's whether it's an exceptional diamond.

Not All Lab Diamonds Are Equal

One of the biggest misconceptions I encounter is that all lab-grown diamonds are the same.

They aren't.

Just as with natural diamonds, lab diamonds vary enormously in cut, color, clarity, and overall beauty. Two diamonds may have identical carat weights yet look completely different once they're set into a ring.

That's why I don't buy diamonds simply because they're lab-grown.

I buy them because they meet the standard I want for my work.

The First Thing I Look For Is Cut

If I had to choose one characteristic that influences a diamond's beauty more than any other, it would be the cut.

A perfectly colorless diamond with poor proportions will never display the same brilliance as a well-cut stone.

The cut determines how efficiently light enters the diamond, reflects internally, and returns to your eye. That's what creates the brightness, fire, and sparkle that people immediately notice.

For round brilliant diamonds, I generally look for the highest grading available:

• Excellent Cut

• Excellent Polish

• Excellent Symmetry

These are often referred to as Triple Excellent diamonds.

They're more selective, but I believe they're worth it.

Color and Clarity Still Matter

After cut, I focus on color and clarity.

Most of the diamonds I choose are F color or better. At this level, the diamond appears beautifully white once set, allowing it to complement both yellow and white gold.

For clarity, I generally specify VS or VVS grades.

Could I source lower grades?

Of course.

Many would appear perfectly acceptable to the naked eye.

But I don't want my clients wondering whether an inclusion could have been avoided.

When someone commissions a Rings by NK piece, I want them to know every major component has been chosen with the same care as the ring itself.

A Diamond Doesn't Live on a Certificate

Grading reports are important.

I read every one.

But a certificate doesn't tell the whole story.

Two diamonds with identical grades can still look noticeably different.

That's why I prefer to inspect stones personally whenever possible. I'm interested in how the diamond performs in real light, not just how it performs on paper.

At the end of the day, the certificate describes the diamond.

Your eyes decide whether it's beautiful.

Choosing Quality Over Size

One of the easiest ways to reduce the price of a diamond is to compromise its quality.

Sometimes that's the right decision for a particular budget.

Often it isn't.

I'd rather see a beautifully cut one-carat diamond than a larger stone that lacks life.

When the proportions are right and the light performance is exceptional, a diamond doesn't need to shout to attract attention.

Its brilliance speaks for itself.

Why I Choose Lab Diamonds

The decision to use lab-grown diamonds isn't about following a trend.

It's about giving my clients access to exceptional quality.

By choosing lab-grown diamonds, I can often source stones with outstanding cut, F color, and VS or VVS clarity at a price that would place an equivalent natural diamond beyond the reach of many couples.

That allows more of the investment to go where I believe it matters most: exceptional craftsmanship, thoughtful design, and a diamond chosen because it's genuinely beautiful—not simply because it came out of the ground.

For me, that's what matters.

About the Author

Nathan King is the designer and goldsmith behind Rings by NK, creating handmade engagement rings, wedding bands, and collector jewelry in the Philippines. Every diamond is personally selected to complement his commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, timeless design, and modern heirlooms.